M ay welcomes the approach of summer - a change of season - busy days of gardening. The May gardener can now complete the spring chores and prepare for summer. Here are some suggestions to help organize your days..
Classes. Check out the schedule on classes. You would enjoy classes on entomology, roses, pruning, plant pathology that are extensions of the regular classes you attended. There is something good and fun in all the classes.
Compost Bin. Organic materials such as leaves and lawn clippings, will decompose when mixed with other organic matter to form a good organic garden soil amendment. Rotate and water from time to time adding commercial fertilizer to assist in decomposition. Call Extension for brochures on composting.
Cultivate flower Beds to eliminate soil compaction, to allow for later absorption and to control weeds. Lightly scratch the upper soil so as not to disturb shallow roots.
Diseases to look out for:
Spray fruit trees. Get a spray schedule from Extension.
Control black spot on roses with triforine (i.e. Funginex) every 7-10 days or as needed to prevent blackspot.
Leaf spot on Red Tip Photinia is a disease which can defoliate, weaken and potentially kill limbs. Indian Hawthorns can also get this disease which is characterized by dark, purple-colored spots on the leaves.
Prevention is the best remedy to control Entomosporium leaf spot so use a fungicidal spray. First, rake up and remove all old, fallen leaves from underneath Photinias. The disease will be more severe if the leaves are frequently wetted, either by rainfall or by an irrigation system. If your sprinklers are hitting the plant's leaves, make adjustments to prevent this from occurring. Alternate triforine (Funginex) or bayleton with chlorothalonil (Daconil, Bravo, Multi-Purpose Fungicide) during the rainy season. This disease can be difficult to control and new growth must be protected.
Evergreen Leaf Droppage. Do not be concerned if evergreens such as magnolias, euonymus, live oak and some of the hollies, lose some of their old leaves during late spring and early summer. The flush of new growth on many evergreens will cause a yellowing of old leaves and some dropping of leaves. It is not anything to be concerned about. It is natures way of putting a new spring coat of green and discarding the old one. Just be sure the problem is not lack of plant food.
Fertilize Trees and Shrubs. Complete tree, shrub and crape myrtle fertilization if you haven't done so. Use tree fertilizer spikes around the drip line of trees or a balanced landscape fertilizer of 8-8-8 , 10-10-10, etc.
Feed those rose shrubs with rose food or fertilizer such as 8-8-8, 1010-10, or 12-12-12. Roses need fertilizer every 4-6 weeks.
Feed houseplants often to keep them growing. They are easy to forget. Feed azaleas a third time and all spring-blooming shrubs after they have bloomed. Lightly fertilize camellias a second time.
Insect Control (IPM)
Leaf Rollers: These are very common this month. One environmentally friendly insecticide you can use is Bacillus thuringiensis (B.T.).
Unfortunately, the month of May is not be complete without a few pests messing things up. Here are a few of which you should be aware. If you know what might be showing up, you can periodically check your yard and take action before things get out of hand and more difficult to control.
Check for aphids, scale and spider mites and stink bugs, especially in vegetable gardens. Check azaleas for lace bugs. These small, slow moving, black insects with clear, lacy wings feed on the underside of the leaves. Damaged leaves look stippled or bleached and have small, shiny black specks on the undersides.
Aphids, or plant lice, can be found on tender, new growth of all types of plants. Aphids are small, soft-bodied insects that suck plant sap, often occurring in very large numbers. There are several naturally occurring enemies of aphids which can efficiently reduce an a small infestation. Usually beneficial insects (lady beetles, lacewings, parasitic wasps) do a good job of controlling aphid populations. Cabbage worms and loopers will be on broccoli, cabbage, collards, kale and cauliflower. The biological insecticide Bacillus thuringiensis (BT), sold under several brand names is very safe to use to control these and other moth and butterfly caterpillars on vegetables and other plants. Use BT late in the day and thoroughly cover the leaves with the spray.
Not all "critters" are pests, nor are all spots diseases - be sure to get any unknown suspect or problem correctly identified before considering treating with a pesticide.
Mulch Plants. Plants should be mulched with organic material like pine straw, leaves, and cypress, cedar or pine bark mulch to conserve summer watering. A 3"-4" mulch layer will help control weeds, preserve water and keep the soil cooler.
Replace or replenish mulch materials in flower beds and shrub borders to conserve moisture and reduce weed growth.
Lawns: Mow every 5-7 days, leaving the clippings on the lawn. Keep St. Augustine grass at 2 1/2 to 3” height, 1-1/2 to 2-1/4" for Bermuda. Apply 1-1/2” of water per week in one or two applications. Water deeply.
The first application of fertilizer for centipede lawns should be made soon, and if you have not yet fertilized St. Augustine or Bermuda grass, it is certainly not too late. The best way to determine what type and how much fertilizer is needed is to have a soil test done; otherwise use a 3-1-2 or 4-1-2 fertilizer ratio.
Planting:
Plant Groundcovers and Vines. Check your landscape for bare areas that need some color and choose a groundcover to plant. Select shade loving cover for areas under trees where turf does not do well. If you have a slope that needs soil stabilization plant Asian Jasmine, Liriope, and Monkey Grass and English Ivy.
Perennials for the sun include coreopsis, daylily, Shasta daisy, dusty miller, garden mums, mallow and salvia (many kinds).
Shade loving perennials include ajuga, begonias, caladium, cannas, coleus, columbine, dahlias, ferns, hosta, impatiens, Phlox, violets, and liriope can also be planted in May.
Some other flowering plants are Joseph’s Coat, Amaryllis, Wax Begonia, Calico Plant, Copper Plant, Geranium, Ginger, Gladiolus, Hibiscus, Hollyhock, Marigold, Periwinkle, Plumbago, Purslane, Sedum, Sunflower, Yarrow, and Zinnia.
Herbs you can plant are anise, Basil, Bay, Bouncing Bet, Catnip, Chives, Cumin, Fennel, Scented Geranium, Germander, Horehound, Horseradish, Lamb’s Ear, Lavender, Lemon Grass, Lemon Verbena, Mexican Mint Marigold, Oregano, Rosemary, Sage, Sesame, Tarragon, and Thyme.
Trees and shrubs: Container-grown fruit trees can go in the ground now. There's still plenty of time to set out container shrubs and trees or transplant them. While they will need regular watering this summer, be certain you are not pouring too much water on your new plants. Roots do not grow well in wet, soggy soil. Regularly check both the surrounding soil and the original soil root ball with your finger to determine the need for supplemental water during the year
Vegetable Gardens: Now is the time to plant peas and okra. For more information on vegetable gardens get a list from the Extension office.
Pruning:
Pinch Back Young Flowering Annuals by removing the terminal which will produce more branches and blooms.
Prune Climbing Roses. Prune climbing roses and other “once bloomers” as soon as they finish flowering. Remove dead or weak wood as needed.
Water Usage.
Water newly established plants during the dry periods. They need more water during the first year. Water dry soil areas as needed with garden hose or soaker hose. Mulch all bare soil to retain moisture.
Think about landscape water conservation by following these rules. Use good design principles, thoroughly prepare beds, limit irrigated turf areas, make effective use of mulch materials, choose native or drought tolerant plants, and practice smart general garden maintenance.
Weed Control.:
Start weeding early in the flower garden. Early competition with small plants can delay flowering. Mulch will discourage weed growth. If weeds break off when pulling get in there with the digger and permanently remove them.
By Derald Freeman TCMGA MG